Though it was in the 80s again on Saturday, I was in the mood for autumnal baking. It might be because I was reading MFK Fisher's Alphabet for Gourmets . Despite her reputation as a French and/or California writer, one can find a Russian cast to her alphabet: although she disdainfully rejects the too-easy B is for Borscht, she does end the alphabet with Zakuski, the ubiquitous Russian appetizers. Zakuski generally serve as the beginning to a meal, and she does note that irony. MFK Fisher may have known an "extravagant hunger," as her biographer has it, but she surely didn't know the extreme thirst of a true Russian alcoholic. What Fisher may not have known is that sometimes, if the purpose of the gathering is drinking, zakuski may be the only food available... And I'm quite certain her circle of acquaintances did not extend to the truly hard-drinking Russian -- the kind who can drink even without zakuski, merely by sniffing a piece ...
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